Brasstown Creek Bamboo Fly Rod Dip Tube and Multi Extraction Motor System


The information below for setting up dipping tanks with Extraction Motors is the system used by Brasstown Creek, Inc. to dip our Bamboo Fly Rods.  While this works for us, there are many other methods, many are better, most are cheaper – but this is what we use.  We are not electricians and recommend anyone working with electricity consult with a certified electrician.

1 We use hose clamps to secure the extraction motors to small wood boards. The small boards allow us some degree of portability once the motors are mounted. We use a single screw to secure the clamp to the board. We bought small pre-cut boards from the millworks section of Home Depot.
2 We purchased our extraction motors from Jameco Electronics ( The motors are DC, variable speed, reversible. They are rated at 4.5 RPM at 12V DC. The operating range is 4.5-12 V DC, but we have been successful at approx 1.8 V DC for a slow extraction.

The Jameco product ID is: 155821. We paid $22.95 each in 2011.
3 We use insulated crimp on quick disconnect connectors from Radio Shack (#6403134) to connect to the blade connections on the Extraction Motor. For wire we used 18/2 wire from Home Depot.
4 We bought a Shaft Coupler from Jameco to connect the Extraction Motor shaft to the dowel inserted into the line wheel (shown later). The shaft coupler uses hex screws to secure the connection.

The Jameco product ID is: #138288. We paid $11.90 each in 2011.
5 There is a flat surface on the Extraction Motor shaft. Align one of the hex screws on the Shaft Coupler and tighten it down on the motor shaft.
6 Here is the Shaft Coupler secured to the Extraction Motor shaft.
7 Here we show what we use for the line wheel. We wanted a line wheel with a lip on it in order to minimize the possibility that the line would slip off during extraction. We experimented with different size line backing spools and determined that, for our Extraction Motors, the Cortland Micron Fly Line Backing (20# test, 100 yards) worked best. More on this later.
8 We used a ¼ inch wood dowell (poplar) from Home Depot to insert into the fly line backing spool which we subsequently connected to Extraction Motor via the Shaft Coupler.
9 We used a fine tooth saw to cut the ¼ in dowell approximately 1 ½ in long. We roughed up the end of the cut dowell (to increase adhesion) and secured it in the fly line backing spool with Dap Strong Stick adhesive. The end of the 1 ½ down inserted into the Shaft Coupler was sanded slightly in order to insure a smooth fit into the coupler.
10 Here again is where we measured and marked the dowel for cutting.
11 The ¼ in dowel has been cut. The portion marked with xxx is where it will be secured into the fly line spool with adhesive. The other end will be sanded slightly and inserted into the Shaft coupler.
12 Here is the ¼ in dowel cut, roughed, sanded and inserted into the Coupler Shaft. This is for demonstration since the dowel will actually be glued into the fly line backing spool after one side has been properly sanded to fit smoothly into the Shaft Coupler.
13 Here is a close-up of the Cortland fly line backing spool that we bought for using as our line spool.
14 This photo depicts where we glued the ¼ in dowel into the fly line spool for subsequent connection to the Extraction Motor via the Shaft Coupler.
15 Here is the fly line spool, with dowel glued in place, ready to be inserted into the Shaft Coupler.
16 The dowel (glued into the fly line spool) has been inserted into the Shaft Coupler. You can see the flat side of the Extraction Motor Shaft and the hex screws which secure the Shaft Coupler to both the Extraction Motor shaft and the dowel.
17 Notice the Brick under the wood mount for the Extraction Motor. We used Velcro Strips (the Velcro was secured to the Brick and the underside of the wood with self-adhesive) and then the wood was stuck together with the Velcro strips. The Brick provides mass so that the Extraction Motor can extract the section of the Bamboo Fly Rod from the Dip Tubes without moving.
18 Here is a better close up of the Extraction Motor, blade electrical connections, and fly line spool. This works really well for dipping Bamboo Fly Rod sections.
19 Here is a European Style Terminal Strip (purchased from Radio Shack (SKU 274-678) which we used to enable three Extraction Motors to be powered from a single AC/DC Power Supply form Jameco.

20 Here are the wires necessary to daisy-chain the positive and negative leads enabling three Extraction Motors to be operated simultaneously. The Banana Plugs from Jameco (#138288 at $1.59/pair in 2011) are inserted into the power-out portion of the Power Supply. The other ends of the wires coupled to the Banana Plugs provide input to the Terminal Strip. The Black and Red wires Daisy Chain on the Terminal (see following photo).
21 This photo depicts how the power is daisy-chained on the European Terminal Strip to allow simultaneous power for three Extraction Motors.
22 Here you see the Banana Plugs inserted into the output of the Power Supply and the three pairs of leads (right side of Terminal Strip) each pair of which connects to a separate Extraction Motor. We bought the variable AC to DC Power Supply from Jameco (#301971) for $89.95 in 2011. The Banana Plugs, also from Jameco (#72195) were $1.59 a pair.
23 This is the Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT), with on-off-on positions, switch from Jameco. We have one for each Extraction Motor. The Jameco product number for this switch is #567761. We paid $3.95 each in 2011.
24 This is a view of the connections to the DPDT switch. For purposes of wiring the DPDT switch, let’s label the screws as follows:

Top row, left to right is 1 2 3 and Bottom row, left to right is 4 5 6 The switch is symmetric, so a 180 degree rotation is OK
25 Strap Connection 1 to Connection 6

NOTE: some of the DPDT switches are configured as top 3 2 1 bottom 6 5 4. If so, just wire by looking at the photos. If your motor runs opposite to the way you want it simply reverse the connections at the motor.
26 Strap Connection 3 to Connection 4

Note – you may wish to wait about the following two steps until you are ready to install in the Project Enclosure later in this example. When you do, use the wiring for the DPDT shown in this series of photographs.
27 Connect the Positive lead from the power source to Connection 3

Connect the Negative lead from the power source to Connection 6
28 Connect the Positive lead to the DC Extraction Motor to Connection 2

Connection the Negative lead to the DC Extraction Motor to Connection 5
29 We purchased Project Enclosure boxes from Radio Shack to house the DPDT Switches. The boxes are 6”x3”x2”. SKU is 270-1805. We use the optional aluminum top.
30 Mark a location on the aluminum top somewhat forward of center. The Nail Punch is to start the hole for your drill. A large nail will serve as well as the Nail Punch.
31 Here the hole is started.
32 The tip of the screwdriver points to where a small drill bit has made the starter hole for the larger drill bit.
33 Use a ½ in drill bit and enlarge the hole for the DPDT switch.
34 Since the drill bit usually leaves burrs and sharp edges, we recommend using a bit of sandpaper.
35 Now the enclosure lid is ready for the DPDT switch.
36 Next, drill a hole in the end of the enclosure so you can pass the connection from the Power Supply (IN) and also the connection to the DC Extraction Motor (OUT). We drill the hole slightly below center (too high interferes with the DPDT switch connections and too low is difficult to maneuver out of the enclosure. We start with a tap hole drilled with a 9/64 bit and expand to the final hole using a 5/16” bit
37 This is the tap hole using the 9/16” bit.
38 Now the final hole has been drilled.
39 Remove the masking tape.
40 Run your connections from the Power Supply and to the Extraction Motors. Wire up the DPDT switch as shown earlier in this example.
41 This photo shows how to connect the DPDT switch to the enclosure top.
42 Here is a photo of the completed DPDT switch housed in the project enclosure.
43 Here the Power Supply is shown connecting to the Terminal Strip. Note the power leads from the strip to the Project Enclosures which subsequently control the Extraction Motors.
44 We operate three Extraction Motors at a time (one butt, two tips). For convenience sake, we label the DPDT switches for “Dip”, “Off”, and “Extract”.
45 We have enclosed the Dipping Tanks and Extraction Motors for our Bamboo Fly Rods in heavy plastic to help control dust and lint. Note the bricks to which the Extraction Motors are attached (with Velcro); the bricks provide stability during extraction of the Bamboo Fly Rod sections while enabling the motors to me repositioned as required.
46 This is a wider view of the Bamboo Fly Rod dipping enclosure.
47 We made our dipping tubes from Aluminum Rod Tubes we bought from Landmark Components. At our request, Ron Cili provided our tubes without foam in either end-cap of the tubes. We also requested that Ron NOT seal the bottom cap on the tubes. We sealed the bottom using epoxy. Note: because we used powder coated Aluminum, we had to sand off the coating to make a good bottom seal. Perhaps plain Al would be easier.
48 We have not had any problems with varnish leaking from these tubes, but we have had leaks with previous tubes, so we place each tube in a gallon can. Better safe than sorry.
49 This is an overview of our Power Supply and Extraction Motors.
50 We run the fly line backing from the spool to eye hooks in the ceiling.
51 We place a small egg-shaped lead fishing weight at the end and put a medium sized fishing swivel at the end of the line to both anchor the lead weight and provide a mechanism to attach the rod clip to the Bamboo Fly Rod Section.

The small lead weight provides weight to stabilize the line if/when it is lowered without a rod section attached.
52 We buy small plastic coated clamps from Home Depot to hang the bamboo rod sections from. The small loop of cord attaches to the swivel clip.
53 The fly line backing from our Extraction Motors goes through small eye hooks in the ceiling.
54 Our Dip Tubes and Extraction Motor system allows us to simultaneously dip the butt and both tip sections of our Bamboo Fly Rods.
55 We have a thermostatically controlled electric heater and a small HEPA filter in our Drying Cabinet. We can suspend up to 40 Bamboo Fly Rod sections in our cabinet at one time.
56 We bought an indoor/outdoor temperature gauge…the IN measurement is the temperature in the dipping apparatus while the OUT measurement is the temperature inside the Drying Cabinet.
57 We also have a Hygrometer inside the Drying Cabinet to measure humidity (note that the temperature in the Drying Cabinet drops quickly when the door is open). The device seen behind the Hygrometer is the sending unit for the OUTSIDE portion of the inside/outside thermometer.
58 A view of the cup hooks we use to suspend the Bamboo Fly Rod sections in our Drying Cabinet.
59 A close up of one of our Bamboo Fly Rods drying.